
















60000:1 Contrast Ratio
1600 Lumens
$3,499 MSRP
Every so often a projector manufacturer takes a mighty swing and hits one way out of the ballpark. Such is the case with this fall's new Panasonic PT-AE3000. Panasonic's third generation 1080p home theater projector combines a breathtaking array of features with rich, satisfying image quality, and brings it all to market for an MSRP of $3,499. The AE3000 is one of those new benchmark-setting achievements that will cause the industry to rethink pricing on 1080p projectors. One wonders... how long can some brands continue to ask $10,000 and up for 1080p projectors when you can get stunning, high contrast 1080p picture quality and an unsurpassed boatload of features for street prices close to $3,000?
ANSI lumens: 1600
Contrast (full on/off): 60,000:1
Light Engine: 1920x1080, native 16:9, 0.74" LCD with a 165W UHM lamp.
Video Compatibility: 1080p/24/50/60, 1080i, 720p, 576p, 576i, 480p, 480i. NTSC/PAL/SECAM.
Connection Panel: Three HDMI 1.3 ports, one 15-pin VGA input, two sets of 3-RCA YPbPr component video, one composite video, one S-video, one 9-pin D-sub serial (RS-232c).
Lens and Throw Distance: 2.00:1 powered zoom/focus lens, with manual vertical and horizontal lens shift. Throws a 100" diagonal 16:9 image from 10 to 20 feet.
Lamp Life: Unspecified.
Lamp Cost: $400
Warranty: One year.
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Key Features and Advantages
In last year's review of the AE2000, we said it had such a long list of unique and noteworthy features that it was hard to know where to start. With the AE3000, that list is even longer. Features that will get the most attention on the AE3000 are much improved contrast, Frame Creation for rendering a smoother image, a rapid frame delivery option for gaming, and Lens Memory for 2.35 screen set-ups.
Contrast. The single most riveting improvement as far as picture quality is concerned is in contrast. The AE3000 delivers much higher contrast than the AE2000. We measured the AE2000 at 305:1 ANSI contrast, while the AE3000 jumps to a very impressive 446:1.
Those numbers might not sound very big to you. But ANSI contrast measures the dynamic range potential in a given frame of video, or the actual difference between black and white at the same time. ANSI contrast numbers are always much lower than Full On/Full Off numbers, so they are not typically published in official specifications. In practical terms, a jump from 305:1 to 446:1 means you get a whopping increase in visible contrast on the screen. In fact, 446:1 is the highest ANSI contrast number we've yet measured on an LCD projector, and it brings LCD's ANSI contrast performance very close to the numbers we see on the DLP competition.
Meanwhile, Full On/Off contrast has been improved as well. The AE2000 was rated at 16,000:1, and the AE3000 is rated at 60,000:1. Our contrast measurements confirm that there is indeed a substantial boost in Full On/Off performance in the AE3000. But ultimately, the numbers are meaningless by themselves. It is the combination of black levels, rapid iris action, ANSI contrast and Full On/Off contrast that produces the final impression of snap, sparkle and three-dimensionality on the screen. And the AE3000 has it in spades. When set side by side with the AE2000, the AE3000's blacks are obviously much deeper and shadow detail is far superior to that which was achieved on the earlier model.
Lumen Output. Not only is contrast outstanding, but the AE3000 has an excellent range of lumen output. Dynamic mode is the brightest, and measured 1273 lumens on our test unit. With factory defaults, the picture in Dynamic mode has a greenish cast to it. But if you bump red up about five notches and green down a couple, you end up with a very bright picture that is also quite pleasant to watch. It isn't perfectly color calibrated, but the evident greenish cast is substantially diminished, and most casual viewers will find the picture to be quite satisfying. It is a great operating mode for Super Bowl parties or other events where you need the extra brightness to combat ambient light. It is also an ideal operating mode for video gaming with room lights on.
Most videophiles will opt for the more ideally color balanced operating modes. In this regard, the AE3000 shows more improvement in lumen output over the AE2000 than the slight change in maximum lumen specs would imply (1600 vs. 1500 respectively). Both models have three distinct Cinema calibration modes, labeled 1, 2, and 3. Last year we measured the AE2000's lumen output in these modes at 345, 390, and 370. But on the AE3000, we measured these same modes at 385, 470, and 566. In addition, Normal mode is an excellent trade-off calibration between the Cinema modes and Dynamic; it was putting out 792 lumens, with not much degradation of color to be too concerned about. I had a large party at my home this past weekend, and I used the AE3000 in Normal mode to display live concert Blu-ray discs. My guests were mesmerized by the brilliant, realistic three-dimensionality of the image. The most frequent comment I heard --- "Why would you ever go to a concert when you can have this instead?"
As a final note, the position of the zoom lens and setting the lamp to eco-mode will both diminish lumen output in all operating modes. Eco-mode will cut lumens by 18%, and the zoom lens at maximum telephoto cuts lumens by up to 41%. So if you need to maximize lumen output, use the wider angle end of the zoom lens if possible.
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Frame Creation. The AE3000 has a new feature which Panasonic calls Frame Creation. When activated, it allows the projector to evaluate movement between previous frames, generate an interpolated frame as a half-step, and insert it into the frame sequence. This is then played back at either 120 Hz or 96 Hz depending on if the source is 30, 60, or 24 fps. You have three choices-Off, Mode 1, or Mode 2. You can select "Off" if you want to disable the feature altogether. Mode 1 will use the prior two frames to do the interpolation, and Mode 2 will use the prior three frames.
The benefit of Frame Creation is that it renders a smoother, sharper image when the camera is panning, or when detailed subject matter is moving across the screen. The sharpening effect is more pronounced in Mode 2 than it is in Mode 1. Why did Panasonic give you the option to turn it on or off, you may wonder? The reason is that, though Frame Creation sharpens the image, it can make the image look to some viewers a bit less like natural film. Thus it can create an effect that some find objectionable. Therefore, you can experiment with it, and decide for yourself whether you want it off, or in Mode 1 or Mode 2.
When you have Frame Creation active it increases video processing time and thus delays delivery of the image to the screen. Even with Frame Creation off, you will typically see a slight video delay (most obvious in lip-synch). That delay becomes more noticeable in Mode 1, and more noticeable yet in Mode 2. If you are just getting started in home theater, keep in mind that all video display systems tend to manifest a bit of video delay that can produce lip-synch issues. That's because it takes more time to buffer and process a video stream than it does to get an audio signal to the speakers. The way you fix this is to use a corresponding audio delay feature that is built into most A/V receivers and external video processors. Or you can use something like the comprehensive but inexpensive Felston Audio Delay, which is what we use in our lab (see review). Audio delays will enable you to bring the sound and picture back into perfect synch, and they are an important part of your home theater set up.
Gaming Mode. As far as gaming is concerned, video delay is not a good thing, and audio delay does not fix the problem. So the AE3000 has a feature which is not called Gaming Mode, but should be. It is called Frame Response, and it lets you adjust the speed of frame delivery from the buffer. Your options are "Normal" and "Fast." "Normal" will provide normal video processing and results in a frame delay of about 3 frames (assuming Frame Creation is off). "Fast" will eliminate some of the standard video processing overhead and cuts frame delay to about 1.5 frames. You can see the effect on lip synch when switching between Normal and Fast, as lip synch problems pretty much disappear in Fast mode. There is no way for a video picture to appear instantaneously with zero delay on any digital video display, so the Fast frame delivery feature on the AE3000 is about as good as it gets. Put the AE3000 into Fast frame response mode, select Dynamic calibration with a few color tweaks, and you end up with a magnificent high resolution gaming system.
(By the way, we tried to activate Frame Creation while setting Frame Response to "fast" to see if the projector would explode. Apparently, the engineers anticipated this. The AE3000 simply defaults to Frame Creation and ignores the fast Frame Response command. The AE3000 knows when it is in the hands of a stupid user.)
Lens Memory. Are you interested in Cinemascope 2.35 widescreen format? A lot of home theater enthusiasts who are mostly interested in widescreen movie viewing (as opposed to HDTV sports and 16:9 HD broadcast programming), are considering the wider format 2.35 screens these days since most movies being made are in this format. The problem has always been how to get the picture from a native 16:9 format projector to fill a 2.35:1 widescreen. The traditional method is to use an external anamorphic lens which can optically distort the image from a 16:9 aspect ratio into the wider 2.35 format. This certainly is one option. Unfortunately, anamorphic lenses cost a lot of money. Typically they are more expensive than the AE3000. So they add a huge expense that most people thinking about buying the AE3000 wouldn't want to pay.
The "poor man's" way to solve the problem has been to use a projector with a long enough zoom lens to move the image size back and forth-zooming to wide angle to fill a 2.35 screen, then zooming forward to fill the vertical height of the screen when a 16:9 or 4:3 image is being viewed. This eliminates the need to buy an anamorphic lens, but it introduces the nuisance factor of having to manually adjust the zoom lens and (often) vertical picture height as well every time you change the format of the viewing material. This can get annoying in a hurry.
Panasonic's "Lens Memory" system is a clever and exciting solution to this problem. If you have a 2.35 (or 2.4) screen, you can set up the projector with the lens toward the wide angle end, and fill the screen exactly to the format of a 2.35 (or 2.4) movie. Activate the Lens Memory feature, and it will go through a routine to memorize the exact position you have selected for the lens. Then zoom the lens forward so that a 16:9 picture fits perfectly into the height of your 2.35 screen. Now activate the Lens Memory feature again, and it will memorize this setting as well. Once you have done this, the AE3000 will automatically reset the lens either to 2.35 or 16:9 at the touch of a button. Presto! You've got an easy-to-use solution for 2.35 Cinemascope movies without the burdensome expense of the anamorphic lens.
We examined this feature closely to ensure that the zooming adjustments were precise and that focus was maintained after each re-adjustment. On our test sample, it passed with flying colors. In addition, keep in mind one thing: If your projector is mounted above the centerpoint of the screen so that it is projecting at a downward angle, the center of the projected image will shift vertically when moving from 2.35 to 16:9. The good news is that the AE3000 has the ability to reposition the 2.35 image up or down within the 16:9 native frame, and this capability has been integrated into the Lens Memory feature. So if your projector is mounted above the center of the screen, you can set both the lens position and the position of the image in the frame, and they will both adjust with a single touch of the button.
Smooth-screen filter. Panasonic home theater projectors are famous for their Smooth Screen technology-essentially a filter that removes visible pixelation. The AE3000 has this same feature. However, it appears to have been adjusted slightly. The AE2000 and its predecessor the AE1000 are the only 1080p projectors we've seen to have absolutely no pixelation at all. On the AE3000, there is a more distinct pixel structure when viewed up close. It is still subtle and completely invisible at normal viewing distances. But it looks like the filter has been tweaked slightly to avoid erasing all hint of pixel structure. As far as we're concerned, this is handy in that it helps for fine-focusing. In theory the presence of a little bit of pixel structure should also contribute to a slightly sharper picture. The AE3000 does indeed appear sharper than the AE2000, but it is difficult to separate the effects of the increases in contrast from any effect of the filter. Higher contrast images always look sharper when the image is equal in all other ways, and we would never have called the AE2000's image soft by any means.
New Remote Control. The AE2000 had a large, complicated learning remote that could control several devices in the theater. This has been abandoned and replaced with a smaller, more ergonomically friendly remote with large, easy to access buttons and great backlighting. Overall, we like this new one a lot better.
Other features. Many of the features that made the AE2000 so popular have been carried forward into the AE3000. Fan noise is still very low--just a whisper in full power mode. Even in high altitude mode, when the fan is moving extra volumes of air to compensation for thin atmosphere, the unit is remarkably quiet. And in eco-mode, the fan is for all practical purposes silent-you cannot tell it is on unless you put your ear close to it.
The on-board wave form monitor that appeared on the AE2000 has been a hit with users, and the AE3000 has it as well. The system assists in the calibration of the projector, and for those into tweaking it is a great tool to have available.
Similarly, split screen calibration is another popular feature introduced last year. a feature that you don't find on many home theater projectors. Here is how it works. Start with a screen image that you want to use as a template for making your adjustments, as follows ...
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After you freeze the frame you want, you simply activate the split screen option, and a rectangular selection window pops up. You can move it back and forth to define which section of the image you want to work with.
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Once you have selected the desired section, the projector will replicate it such that you have two identical copies side by side ......
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Now you can make any adjustments you want to color temperature, color saturation, brightness, contrast, or gamma. The projector will apply the adjustments you make to the image on the right side of the screen, and hold the image on the left side constant. In this manner you can see precisely the effects of the changes you are making. You can finish by either saving or discarding the changes you've been experimenting with. For many users, this is a great educational tool that helps you understand the nature and range of the various adjustment controls available to you.
Limitations
Last year we had a hard time finding much to complain about on the AE2000, and the task is doubly hard with the AE3000. Certainly, for those who want to ceiling mount their projector, it would be nice to have an option to get it in a white case. As it is, the dark gray casework may not be aesthetically pleasing when mounted against a white ceiling in a living room or some other multi-purpose room. However, in a dedicated theater room it won't make any difference.
Last year we mentioned the lower lumen output in Cinema modes as being somewhat of a limitation, but that has been fixed in the AE3000.
The warranty is one year, which is the minimum acceptable warranty period for the industry. Many home theater projectors come with two year, and in some cases three year warranties. On the other hand, you can buy an additional year or two of warranty, and still end up with a projector that is a phenomenal value for the money paid.
Conclusion
The Panasonic AE3000 will be one of the year's hottest selling projectors. With stunning, natural high-contrast image quality and an impressive array of unique features that don't exist on competing models, Panasonic has established a formidable price/performance proposition that will be hard for others to match.
We have awarded the AE3000 five stars for performance based on excellent contrast, outstanding black level, outstanding image stability with frame interpolation, and a first-rate high brightness mode. It isn't quite as sharp as the Mitsubishi HC6500 or HC7000, but it is comparable to most of the other 1080p models it competes with. As far as features are concerned, the AE3000 has lens memory, split-screen calibration, an onboard waveform monitor, and the frame interpolation system that, collectively, make this projector the most feature-laden 1080p projector on the market. On top of all that, it is selling for very aggressive street prices. It is not possible to give this model anything other than a full five stars across the board.
Where to Buy the Panasonic PT-AE3000U Projector
| Seller | Price | State Tax | Warranty | Rent | Free Loaner | Int'l Sales | S&H Incl. |
47 Buyer Comments Seller Profile |
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NY | MFG | No | No | Yes | Yes |
| We carry a wide Selection of Projectors,Plasma and Lcd TVs,Av Receivers,Home Theather Systems,Mounts,Cables,and More.Free Shipping and Promotional offers available on Hundreds of items Daily.Wholesale Prices With Personal Service. | |||||||
1387 Buyer Comments Seller Profile |
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WA | 1 yr + 1 yr | No | No | No | Yes |
| 1300+ Outstanding Reviews for Excellent Service Can't be Wrong! Authorized Panasonic Dealer | |||||||
101 Buyer Comments Seller Profile |
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MN | 1 Year | No | No | No | Yes |
| Now in stock!! Limited quantity available. Panasonic's brand new 1080p projector. We are an Authorized Panasonic Dealer AND Authorized Panasonic Service Center. | |||||||
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Reader Comments(106 comments)
Posted Sep 27, 2009 9:48:35 PM |
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By brandon |
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Posted Aug 31, 2009 11:27:31 AM |
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By Akshay |
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Posted Jul 20, 2009 11:42:12 AM |
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By EjIMBo. |
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The thing's not completely unwatchable but I was really ticked off that this would happen at all with no way to fix it. I've read that it's "possible" to realign the units manually when you take the machine apart, but you have to REALLY know what you're doing to avoid further damage. And, with my experience with any of the service centers, they'll only make things work. In other words, if it's broke, they really WON'T fix it.
Panasonic's reputation of extremely bad customer service is well founded.
It seems to me that all Panasonic would need to do is have a program installed that allows you to electronically be able to re-align the pixels manually with a test pattern and the ability to shift each colour over a few pixels relative to each other. But, that would be making the machines last longer so we wouldn't have to toss it and spend another three grand on a new one, right?
Oh well. Yet another problem to add to the eventual lamp replacement.
I wonder if the new projectors have that problem? I guess we'll all find out a few days after those warranties run out. It's like they know exactly when to break down! :-(
When this projector finally packs it in, I won't be buying a new one. Too expensive for the short time you get to use it.
Posted Jul 7, 2009 1:58:50 AM |
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By lewisdavidbb@yahoo.com |
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Posted May 30, 2009 4:57:06 AM |
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By kevinp |
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Posted May 25, 2009 2:36:41 PM |
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By Max Edwards |
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Posted May 4, 2009 12:28:56 PM |
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By rickirick |
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Posted Apr 26, 2009 7:45:17 PM |
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By duane schoon |
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Posted Apr 21, 2009 6:38:16 AM |
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By Igor |
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Posted Apr 8, 2009 12:59:41 PM |
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By eva_kollarova@ri-rpc.sk |
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Posted Apr 4, 2009 10:55:26 PM |
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By Uday bhatia |
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Posted Apr 3, 2009 12:58:03 AM |
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By RAJIV THAKUR |
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Posted Mar 29, 2009 8:45:27 PM |
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By John |
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Posted Mar 15, 2009 10:39:16 PM |
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By murray1 |
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Thanks again
Posted Mar 10, 2009 9:21:22 PM |
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By aluminumangel |
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Posted Mar 6, 2009 10:23:02 PM |
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By murray1 |
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Since, as I understand it, both units are sold with operating voltages of 110-240V, why are there differences? Also both take (I think) PAL and NTSC sources.
Or is this yet another example of price differentials as we see with DVDs?
Cheers
Posted Mar 6, 2009 3:21:48 PM |
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By Frank T |
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Interested to learn from anyone who has upgraded to an AE3000 from the AE700, if they can comment on the above?
Posted Mar 5, 2009 12:06:18 AM |
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By murray2 |
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Thanks in advance!
Posted Feb 18, 2009 3:55:55 PM |
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By Steve S |
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Comments?
Posted Feb 15, 2009 6:38:58 PM |
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By Peter Roberts |
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Here's my experience of removing the circle:
1. Bought a couple of spray cans of compressed air (actually what comes out smells like a petrochemical, but the blurb on the can stated it was suitable for delicate electronics and photographic work). Cost about 10 quid each from a local electronics shop.
2. Downloaded a service manual for the PTAE2000 from www.nodevice.com (cost 10 euros), which contained details on how to almost fully disassemble the projector (didn't need to do this, fortunately -- see below).
3. Removed the top cover and lamp unit as per instructions in the user manual for changing the lamp.
4. Removed the upper case by unscrewing 8 screws, and stood the projector on its back panel so that I could spray into it without tilting the air can (I found that liquid didn't come out of the air can until it was it was almost horizontal, but I wanted to make sure that the can stayed almost vertical throughout the cleaning procedure in order to minimise this possibility).
5. The position of the LCDs is obvious from the three wide connecting ribbons (this arrangement probably applies to most projectors). I had intended to remove the "A-P.C. Board" as per the instructions in the service manual, but although it is held by only a few screws, perhaps a dozen connectors would also need to be removed. After unclipping the first 2 I decided that this was going to be a bit difficult (they were very tight, and I didn’t want to damage anything in case I had to send the projector back to the manufacturer under warrantee), so instead I sprayed the air (via the thin plastic pipe that came with the can) through the gap between the ribbons and the PCB in the general direction of each PCD panel.
6. Upon reassembly and testing the green circle was still there, as were all the dark patches. Oh dear.
7. Decided to give it one more go before contacting Panasonic, and this time I ensured when spraying that the end of the plastic pipe was almost as deep below the PCB board as the top edge of each LCD panel. I wasn’t 100% sure that I could see where each LCD panel was, but I tried to spray both sides of each of them and also through a copy of holes in the metal box covering the square area where the light beams intersect. I also sprayed into an accessible gap between the lens and LCD assemblies.
8. This time upon reassembly the green circle and all of the dark patches had disappeared.
In summary, it took about 30 minutes and no hassle of returning the projector to the shop or manufacturer (even if they did do this under warrantee) to completely remove the dust blob and also lots of other rubbish on the LCD panels.
I still don't understand why dust (or anything else that is in the light path that shouldn't be there) would appear as individual bright pixels when defocusing -- anyone have a convincing explanation?
Cheers, Peter Roberts
Posted Feb 14, 2009 8:56:43 PM |
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By Todd K |
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Posted Feb 12, 2009 12:03:58 PM |
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By Full Name |
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On a follow-up to the whole "loss of resolution" topic, the actual resolution of 2.35:1 material would be 1920x817. True, that is a loss from 1080 lines, but it is for instance still better than 720p (plus it has many more pixels per line as well). True that anamorphic lenses could together with scaling make sure all pixels in the projector is used, but it is not a drastic increase in pixels, and these are only calculated pixels anyway. The pixel structure may in extreme cases (if you have very large screen and very short distance) be less of a problem. Part of what is gained in light output will be lost in different needed zoom setting. On top of that, adding more optics in the light-path can negatively affect the picture and/or be very expensive to aquire. I think the 3000 is a great step for the vast majority of users that have somewhat of a limit on budgets.
Posted Feb 12, 2009 9:45:31 AM |
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By Full Name |
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Question: Does it allow for only 2 lens memory settings? I'm building a theater and was hoping it accomodates 3 or more settings, so I could also do 2.40:1. (or I suppose some people might like 4:3). I'd like to keep all aspects same height so I don't have to do 4-way masking...
Posted Jan 28, 2009 8:28:52 PM |
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By paul in gallus |
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Posted Jan 16, 2009 9:37:16 AM |
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By bill |
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Posted Jan 10, 2009 3:54:52 PM |
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By doc92 |
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Posted Dec 23, 2008 4:18:05 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Posted Dec 23, 2008 1:11:23 AM |
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By HTE |
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Posted Dec 22, 2008 8:16:56 PM |
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By Robert Best |
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Posted Dec 22, 2008 8:50:08 AM |
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By digi-head |
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Posted Dec 22, 2008 6:42:53 AM |
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By kevinp |
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P.S. paulin congratulations on your purchase (if I were buying now its the one i'd go for). But I'am holding off until the projector room is completed and this may take some time :( Its just to hot here and the beach it to close. And who knows what CES 2009 may bring.
Posted Dec 18, 2008 12:32:07 PM |
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By Nossy |
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Not only that, projectors are not as out-of-box friendly as flat panels and rear projectors. Often times they require a dedicated room.
Posted Dec 12, 2008 4:33:05 PM |
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By paulin gallus |
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Oh [censored] this is a nice projector I am so glad I waited. It's cold in west wales and raining all the time, local cinema is 15 miles away in a flea pit of bad surround sound and noisy locals, I am at home all warm wrapped up in a duvet watching fantastic images... thanks Panasonic...happy Christmas all.
Posted Dec 12, 2008 1:23:12 PM |
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By rickirick |
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Posted Dec 5, 2008 7:44:27 AM |
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By Johnny |
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Posted Nov 26, 2008 3:01:49 PM |
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By tomo |
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Posted Nov 24, 2008 4:15:59 PM |
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By Moike |
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My only disappointment is that I was really looking forward to the frame creation feature, since I don't like the motion judder of 24 fps. After turning it on, however, I found that I couldn't lose myself in the movie the way I normally do. It has a sort of "home video" feel to it that makes me feel like I'm standing next to the director and watching actors rather than looking through a window to an alternate reality. It's a neat feature but I think I'll leave it off personally.
Posted Nov 21, 2008 5:21:19 PM |
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By Art Feierman |
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I think that's an easy one. In the past, I think everyone used Cinema 1 on the Panny as it's "best, no compromise" mode for calibration. We measured that 402, compared to a similar 385 lumens by Evan. Without any calibration, the Cinema 3 mode we measured at only 422 lumens compared to his 566, but we found it's color temp was jut over 8000K, so it would need a huge amount of grayscale adjustment to get down to 6500K. Perhaps, when he got done, he had his 6500K, but perhaps less black level performance, etc. More strange is that we only found about 20 lumens difference (pre-calibration) between the three Cinema modes, whereas he found almost 200 lumens. They may well have calibrated it into an "almost as good as" Cinema 1, but with more lumens. That's the nice thing about multiple presets, many of my readers find they use intermediate modes to get more lumens, with little cost in overall picture.
I liked Evan's side by side of the Sony vs Panny. We just got our Sony in, and I still have the PT-AE3000U, so will also be viewing both side by side, post calibration, starting this weekend. Should be interesting -art
Posted Nov 19, 2008 10:31:07 AM |
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By tony |
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Posted Nov 15, 2008 2:21:50 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Posted Nov 14, 2008 2:45:52 PM |
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By Larry |
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Posted Nov 8, 2008 10:31:12 PM |
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By firstnline |
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Posted Nov 1, 2008 10:52:42 PM |
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By MikeG |
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Posted Nov 1, 2008 4:40:02 PM |
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By TED |
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From Arts blof at projector reviews http://www.projectorreviews.com/blog/2008/10/30/panasonic-pt-ae3000u-home-theater-projector-first-look/
Posted Oct 31, 2008 3:23:51 AM |
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By BenoitM |
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1) how serious is the lipsync issue ? ("Even with Frame Creation off, you will typically see a slight video delay"). I enjoy a SD DLP projector for 8 years now, and I want to go to HD, but this scares me.
2) I have a 4:3 screen now, and many videos in SD 4:3 (also many SDTV shows are still 4:3). I'm scared that with a 16:9 projector, 4:3 SD content would be displayed in a small area of the 4:3 screen because of the cumulative effect of top letterboxing due to 16:9 native projector and 4:3 lateral cropping due to 4:3 (with 1:1 pixels) program. Would be Lens Memory be of any help here (memory pos. #1 would be optimzed for 16:9 display and memory pos. #2 would be zoomed in for 4:3 display across the full 4:3 screen). Or does it work *only* for 16:9 vs 2.35:1 ?
Posted Oct 30, 2008 12:31:06 PM |
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By kevinp |
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If anyone is thinking of doing this please donate it to me instead and I will send the school a PTAE 500 which they can use to the full :)
also why would anyone pay a fair price for a second hand Full HD projector if they don't need the extra resolution as they could find lower resolution ones much cheaper.
The solution to is allow the HDMI connection to accept other types of signal. That way anyone who needed could connect with a fairly cheap adapter.
However this would reduce the value of removing the connectors because part of the saving would be related to the processing of these signals.
Posted Oct 29, 2008 6:50:49 AM |
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By Geoff P. |
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I agree with you for the most part. However, I don't see any harm in including s-video and composite. I'm sure that removing them wouldn't introduce much of a cost savings.
I would rather have inputs that I don't really need instead of needing inputs that I don't have. One thing it does is let me hook up my Wii right out of the box (it only comes with composite connections). It also adds value when you want to sell it later in it's life. You can sell or donate it to organizations (like schools) who wouldn't be in a position to use HDMI or component.
Posted Oct 28, 2008 10:30:24 PM |
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By Ed Woo |
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This (AE3000) is a home theater projector, no? Then I agree with you. My sweeping statement is for "projectors...for home use to display hi-def content." Just to reaffirm my point here: if you're going to spend thou$ands for a dedicated home theater pj, why would one use the old-style composite/Svideo interconnects? So why would this respectable AE3000 even bother to include these inputs? Beats me.
Let me pose this question to everyone on this post: If you have or are planning to purchase this sweet piece of equipment, are you currently using or will you use the composite/Svideo inputs?
I concede the fact that the composite/Svideo inputs may be useful for multimedia pj's, but c'mon - do they still belong on home theater/high def projectors? We don't see Blu-ray mfgrs releasing any BD/VCR combo machines, do we?
Posted Oct 28, 2008 8:09:10 AM |
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By Liquidmetro |
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Erm while S-Video and composite may not be useful if you are only considering hi-def, it is still of use to others. I had to buy an old MacBook Pro because Apple decided to remove compatibility with the older analogue connections (you can still get Analogue RGBHV via a minidisplay port to 'VGA' adapter, but then a scan (down) converter is needed). I am a visual artist and provide visuals alongside DJs/bands. The default PAL/NTSC industry standard video mixer only has S-Video/CV inputs as hi-def is along way off (live mixing of this size video too demanding - even with Dual Cores and 512MB of VRAM and 4GB RAM). I have used Matrox DualHead2Go's but this is only for 1280x480 (mixing between 2 x 640x480 and 1 x 1280x480 across twin projectors). By day I work in education as an AV Technician and we utlise all connections on the rear of the 100+ projectors I am responsible for.
To conclude different markets need different connectors (inc niche ones like mine). Your sweeping statement is applicable to those who only wish to use projectors with high def inputs for home use to display high def content.
Posted Oct 26, 2008 7:38:43 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Posted Oct 26, 2008 6:42:56 PM |
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By paulin gallus |
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Posted Oct 26, 2008 9:29:27 AM |
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By kevinp |
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Posted Oct 25, 2008 4:25:14 PM |
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By paulus gallus |
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Posted Oct 25, 2008 8:51:19 AM |
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By Dino |
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Posted Oct 24, 2008 12:00:39 PM |
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By kevinp |
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Posted Oct 24, 2008 9:48:36 AM |
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By Gary |
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Posted Oct 23, 2008 10:41:01 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Posted Oct 23, 2008 3:03:01 PM |
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By Ed Woo |
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Posted Oct 23, 2008 2:17:37 PM |
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By kevinp |
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Posted Oct 23, 2008 1:57:08 PM |
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By kevinp |
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Posted Oct 22, 2008 12:11:51 PM |
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By KDCTS |
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Posted Oct 22, 2008 11:07:28 AM |
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By Greg |
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Yes, there is no way any projector can overcome this issue, it's simply a matter of geometry.
The only way to elminate black bars completely, for all movie ratios, is with a 4-way (top and bottom) masking system.
Posted Oct 21, 2008 1:31:23 PM |
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By onpoint |
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Posted Oct 19, 2008 7:52:29 AM |
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By kidzey |
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Posted Oct 18, 2008 9:07:52 PM |
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By Manjunath |
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Posted Oct 17, 2008 6:20:06 PM |
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By pomFritz |
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Posted Oct 17, 2008 4:56:58 PM |
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By Raúl Romero |
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RR
Posted Oct 17, 2008 1:36:58 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Disclosure: at the time the above remarks were posted the author had an interest in lower prices.
Posted Oct 17, 2008 12:23:51 PM |
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By KevinP |
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Posted Oct 17, 2008 11:50:09 AM |
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By Jason |
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Posted Oct 17, 2008 11:40:27 AM |
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By Hugo |
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Does the AE3000 feature anything like this?
Posted Oct 16, 2008 2:51:38 PM |
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By Jake |
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Posted Oct 16, 2008 12:33:21 PM |
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By Erik |
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Sorry, I hadn't understood your setup. I think you are right that it will be impossible to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 with your current setup, without using the manual vertical lens shift.
I'm not sure, but perhaps you could aim the projector down instead of using vertical lens shift. You'd have some keystoning (but the projector can compensate for that digitally to some extent), but I guess you would be able to do the 2.35:1 and 16:9 switch with a button press.
Posted Oct 16, 2008 11:33:07 AM |
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By Peter Jones |
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ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/pub/Panasonic/Drivers/PBTS/brochures/PT-AE3000_Specifications.pdf
which seems to confirm the interpretation that the lens memory feature is designed to work only when the lens is vertically positioned between the top and bottom of a 2.35:1 screen. On page 5, there are charts for projector placement ranges for different screen sizes. The dimension H is the vertical offset between the lens and the top (inverted ceiling-mount) or bottom (table/shelf-mount) of the screen. Negative values of H correspond to the lens being higher than the top or lower than the bottom of the screen. The first table, which describes 16:9-only installation, has ranges of H that start with a significantly negative value. The second table, which describes 2.35:1 screen installation with the lens memory feature, has much smaller ranges of H that all start at zero, implying that the lens cannot be higher than the top or lower than the bottom of the screen-- because, I assume, there is no optical lens shift integrated with the lens memory feature.
Posted Oct 16, 2008 10:39:08 AM |
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By Peter Jones |
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I understand how the digital image shift makes the automated lens memory work if the lens is vertically positioned anywhere between the top and bottom of the 2.35:1 screen. My question was about when the lens is positioned outside that range-- say, higher than the top of the screen, as is typical for ceiling mount configurations like mine (or lower than the bottom of the screen, like for some coffee table configurations). I don't understand how it could work in such cases, without additional manual adjustment of the vertical lens shift on every 16:9<->2.35:1 switch.
I have a 2.35:1 screen and a projector (Sony VPL-VW50) ceiling-mounted with the lens higher than the top of the screen, and I once tried to see if I could switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 modes by using the projector's motorized zoom adjustment only (not its optical lens shift) along with the digital vertical image shift provided by my video processor (which is much more convenient to adjust than the projector's optical lens shift), but I quickly stumbled into the problem I described previously: with the lens's zoom and shift adjustments set for the 16:9 subarea of the screen, there is a certain offset between the vertical position of the lens and the top of the projected image-- from that point, merely zooming so that the image fills the width of the 2.35:1 screen inevitably increases that offset further, such that there is no projected image in the top band of the screen, so no amount of digital image shift can move the 2.35:1 subimage high enough.
Posted Oct 16, 2008 9:10:29 AM |
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By Terry |
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Posted Oct 15, 2008 4:46:48 PM |
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By Erik |
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That is an excellent question, and one I would also like to see answered.
If the black bars on a 2.35:1 movie force the iris mostly closed, then I would expect the dynamic contrast to be much worse in such a configuration as compared to using the vertical-stretch mode and an anamorphic lens.
Posted Oct 15, 2008 4:39:28 PM |
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By Erik |
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You use the digital picture shift to compensate, similar to a V-Shift knob on an old TV. Essentially, you will be throwing out some of the frame at the top or bottom of the screen, but since that is just a "black bar" with a 2.35:1 movie, it doesn't matter. The lens memory includes the digital shift.
If you have a 2.35:1 screen, the setup would go: display a 16:9 image and use manual lens shift to center it vertically on your screen (memorize the settings), shift to a 2.35:1 image and use zoom, focus, manual horizontal lens shift, and DIGITAL vertical shift to fill and center the image on the screen and then memorize the settings. Now you should be to switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1 with a button press.
Posted Oct 15, 2008 1:35:12 PM |
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By Rickirick |
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I'd also like to see commentary on how Pansonic's "frame creation" feature compares to the similar feature on LCD TVs, usually advertised as 120 Hz. I've always been annoyed at motion on LCD TVs and projectors, so I think this will become a common feature and the quality of the various 120 Hz implementations will be of interest.
Posted Oct 15, 2008 1:14:28 PM |
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By onpoint |
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Posted Oct 15, 2008 12:05:17 PM |
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By Peter Jones |
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Posted Oct 15, 2008 10:43:45 AM |
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By Damir |
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Great review that leaves us wanting more reviews of the next good projector to come.
Posted Oct 15, 2008 12:52:37 AM |
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By peter mason |
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Also the PT-AE3000 gives 1273 lumens in dynamic mode but the much cheaper PT-AX200 gives 1845 lumens in this mode. I would have expected the more expensive projector to at least match the light output of the cheaper one?
Posted Oct 14, 2008 8:40:00 PM |
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By Leonard Eckian |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 6:05:54 PM |
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By Nabi |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 5:28:34 PM |
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By medina sod |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 5:23:07 PM |
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By Jeff |
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Heh :-) I guess for about as long as Monster Cable can charge $150.00 for the identically-performing 4ft HDMI cable that you can get at monoprice for $6.00
There is no shortage of the "Boutique Elite" with too much discretionary cash and too little common sense.
-- Jeff
Posted Oct 14, 2008 4:41:19 PM |
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By Jack |
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Kudos to Pannasonic and thanks for the good review!
Posted Oct 14, 2008 1:49:16 PM |
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By mxm |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 1:12:28 PM |
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By DOuG pRATt |
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(Note: I'm not the DVD Newsletter Doug Pratt)
Posted Oct 14, 2008 12:46:48 PM |
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By iris |
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I suppose this question applies to any projector with a dynamic iris.
Posted Oct 14, 2008 12:15:28 PM |
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By Adman |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 12:14:39 PM |
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By Adman |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 10:40:13 AM |
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By Udo |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 10:04:12 AM |
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By love2scoot |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 9:24:33 AM |
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By Butch |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 9:17:13 AM |
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By LED fan |
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Also, I have not seen any progress on adopting LED as light sources. Is there any attempt by main stream manufacturers, such as Panasonic and Optoma?
Posted Oct 14, 2008 7:40:58 AM |
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By Derrick Bailey |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 7:05:44 AM |
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By Alex |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 6:36:30 AM |
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By hi_def fan |
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Posted Oct 14, 2008 12:01:50 AM |
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By Dennis |
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Thanks for your reviews of this website.
Posted Oct 13, 2008 9:46:07 PM |
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By Neil |
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Posted Oct 13, 2008 9:14:17 PM |
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By DoctorX! |
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Posted Oct 13, 2009 11:47:01 AM
By Jay