Editor's Choice Award
Our Editor's Choice award goes to products that dramatically exceed expectations for performance, value, or cutting-edge design.
Today Panasonic has ended months of speculation by formally announcing its plan to bring the PT-AE4000U to the US market. The news that is even more buzz-worthy is that it will be offered at an official street price of just $1,999.
The AE4000 announcement is dramatic. Though its spec sheet does not look revolutionary compared to last year's AE3000, the AE4000 is in fact a superior projector in almost every way. Certainly it surpasses the AE3000 in image quality. And it is even more fully-featured than its predecessor. But what is most stunning is the price. Last October, a mere twelve months ago, the AE3000 was released with street prices close to $3,000. This month the AE4000 comes to market at $1,999. This aggressive move will force other manufacturers competing in the home theater projector market to reassess their pricing levels.
AE4000 vs. AE3000: Differences and Improvements
The AE3000 was already the most fully-featured home theater projector on the market. The AE4000 trumps it in several important ways:
• Red-Rich Lamp. Panasonic has engineered a proprietary new high pressure lamp that puts out 50% more red light than its predecessors. High pressure lamps have always been weak in red spectrum light, and this new lamp design takes a big step toward eliminating that weakness. And the difference is obvious. When putting the AE3000 and AE4000 side by side, red elements in the picture are noticeably brighter. The hue of red is no different, but red subject matter as a component of the whole picture is more vibrant. A red stop sign on the AE3000 looks red, but it is somewhat darker relative to the rest of the image than it is on the AE4000. The increased red content of the lamp also contributes significantly to improved skin tones.
• Improved contrast. The AE3000 was rated at 60,000:1, and the AE4000 is 100,000:1. Can you see the difference, you may wonder? Absolutely. When viewed in a dark room side by side, the AE4000 is obviously higher in contrast and deeper in black level than its predecessor. And with higher contrast comes the other typical benefits driven by contrast -- deeper color saturation, an improved sense of image depth, and the impression of increased image sharpness.
The improvement in contrast was not achieved by reducing the aperture on the auto iris. Rather, Panasonic has redesigned what they call the Pure Contrast Plate, an optical component located right after the LCD panels to improve the contrast level. This component effectively allows the polarization filters to block the light leakage caused from the panels, for deeper blacks.
As with the AE3000, the AE4000 uses inorganic LCD panels which also contribute to the higher contrast in these models. In inorganic panels, the liquid crystals are vertically aligned, making it easier for polarizers to filter out almost all light for deeper blacks.
• Improved Cinema mode brightness. The maximum lumen rating has not changed; both the AE3000 and AE4000 are rated at 1600 lumens. However, the red enhanced lamp contributes to a brighter overall image in Cinema mode. Our AE3000 measured 385 lumens in Cinema 1 mode. The AE4000's Cinema 1 puts out 548 lumens, or 42% boost. The other programmed operating modes are brighter as well, but do not show as dramatic an increase. For example, normal mode measured 792 on the AE3000, and we are seeing 950 lumens on the AE4000 (+20%). On the AE4000, the Color 1 and Color 2 modes are both measuring in the 550 lumen range, compared to about 400 on the AE3000.
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As a side note, the AE4000's lamp eco-mode has more of an effect on light output. On the AE3000, dropping the lamp into eco-mode reduced light output by 18%. On the AE4000, it reduces it by 32%. On both models, you lose up to 41% of potential light output if you set the 2.0x zoom lens to the maximum long throw position (smallest image from any given distance).
• Improved color accuracy. The Cinema 1 mode delivers virtually perfect color balance, measuring almost exactly 6500K across the entire gray scale with a beautifully flat line on the color temperature graph. For those who want to pull it out of the box and run without worrying about calibration, this is as close as it gets to ideal. Discs that are properly transferred will be seen as the director intended the films to be seen, including whatever tints and color biases that may have been engineered into the original.
• Improved Detail Clarity Processor. The AE3000 has a Detail Clarity Processor that you can set to either On or Off. When activated, the picture appears sharper and fine details pop out. Sometimes this effect is desired and sometimes it isn't, depending on the nature of the material being viewed. On the AE4000, the "Detail Clarity Processor 3" is an improved system that lets you choose the amount of resolution enhancement you want in the picture. You activate it by selecting a level from 1 to 7. The factory default is position 2. We found that boosting it to 3 or 4 lent the picture additional apparent resolution, without adding unwanted artifacts. Raising it to 7 goes way over the top for typical film material, and makes skin look like it has the texture of sandpaper. But overall, this system is more precise and user friendly than the earlier version.
• Improved Frame Interpolation. Panasonic uses the marketing term Frame Creation for its frame interpolation system. The AE3000 had three options for Frame Creation: Off, Mode 1 and Mode 2. Mode 1 buffered two frames and created one or more interim frames from those. Mode 2 buffered three frames and created one or more interim frames. Mode 2 was more comprehensive, but created more video delay.
The AE4000 incorporates the second generation of this system, and is thus called Frame Creation 2. It has the same Mode 1 and 2 as the original, but it has a new Mode 3. This also buffers three frames for analysis, but it performs much more processing to achieve a better result. Video delay in Mode 1 is modest, more noticeable in Mode 2, and more visible yet in Mode 3. Modes 2 and 3 put the picture visibly out of synch with the audio. Thus an audio delay is required to keep the picture and sound in synch when using the Frame Creation system.
The Frame Creation system reduces motion judder in increments-it is somewhat reduced in Mode 1, more so in Mode 2, and virtually non-existent in Mode 3. It accomplishes this with only occasional subtle artifacts. Depending on the material being viewed, Frame Creation can impart a hyper-reality to the image, making a movie look as it if were made with an HD videocam rather than a film camera. Some people like this effect, and others find it quite objectionable. Either way, this effect on the AE3000 and AE4000 is subtle when compared to competing models from last year on which the effect is more pronounced.
One demo that is quite interesting, if you ever have the chance to stage it, is to run a projector without frame interpolation side by side with the AE4000. When the pictures are adjacent to one another and the AE4000's clean, stable image is used as a reference, it is startling to see just how much judder and instability there is in the picture that is not being processed with frame interpolation.
The bottom line is that some users will want to use Frame Creation on everything they watch. Some will prefer to use it selectively, on material like animated films and sports broadcasts. Some won't use it at all. But it is nice to have the option.
• Advanced Gamma Adjustments. On the AE3000, gamma controls are straightforward and basic, consisting of three separate up or down controls for the low, mid, and high range of the curve. This set of controls is available on the AE4000 also, and is labeled as "Simple." But in addition, the AE4000 offers an "Advanced" system that provides a great deal more control for precise fine-tuning. R, G, B, and Y components can be adjusted independently at nine different points on the curve rather than three. Most users won't be bothering themselves with this, but those into precision adjustment of their video display will appreciate it.
• Two programmable 12-volt triggers. On most projectors, the 12-volt trigger is an outbound signal that will activate an electric screen, or withdraw powered curtains, etc., when the projector is powered on. On the AE4000, there are two triggers, and they can be programmed to act either as inbound or outbound triggers. With this flexibility, you can wire together a whole array of components in the theater to activate simultaneously.
• Increased resistance to dust. The metal housings containing the LCD panels have been partially sealed in a way that they were not on previous models. This modification will further reduce the potential for dust particles to reach them.
• Intelligent Lens Memory. Lens memory was introduced by Panasonic on the AE3000. This feature enables you to set up the projector with a 2.40 widescreen, and zoom the lens to full frame 2.40 format when viewing a movie in 2.40 aspect ratio or higher. Then when native 16:9 material is being displayed, a push of the button moves the zoom lens to where the 16:9 image is centered full frame in the middle of the 2.40 screen. The objective is to let you enjoy super-widescreen format without the cost of an anamorphic lens. The AE4000 retains this feature and takes it one step further-now you don't have to press the button to change lens positions. The projector will automatically detect the format of the image being displayed, and the lens will reconfigure itself to accommodate it. This feature is optional. If you prefer to be proactive and select the lens position yourself, you can deactivate the auto-detect feature.
Other Features Carried Forward from the AE3000
In addition to the new or enhanced features/capabilities just reviewed, the AE4000 has all of the other features found on the AE3000, including:
• User-friendly Menu Interface. We didn't mention this benefit on previous models but should have. The AE4000 and predecessors offer a menu that remembers the adjustment you made previously, and will enable you to bypass the normal access route through the menu in order to get back to that same adjustment.
For example, the Frame Creation setting is deep in the Advanced section of the menu, and the first time you go there requires anywhere from 9 to 16 clicks depending on the route you take. But if you set Frame Creation to Mode 1, and then decide you want to see what Mode 2 looks like, it only takes two clicks to get back to the Frame Creation control to reset it. On most projectors, you have to go through the entire 9 to 16 click sequence all over again. This is true of all adjustments including color, gamma, and so on. This makes all menu controls much easier to access and manipulate.
Another feature of the user-friendly menu is that once you have selected a control to adjust, the menu disappears and just the control bar for the one function you are adjusting drops to the bottom of the screen. That way you can see precisely the effect that adjustment is having on the picture. On many competing models, the entire menu remains in place, and you are left to wonder what is happening to the picture. The more we work with projectors, the more we grow to appreciate these user-friendly features that appear on the AE4000.
• Gaming Mode. Video delay is not a good thing for gaming, and audio delay does not fix the problem. So the AE3000 and AE4000 both have a feature which is not called Gaming Mode, but could be. It is called Frame Response, and it lets you adjust the speed of frame delivery from the buffer. Your options are "Normal" and "Fast." "Normal" will provide normal video processing and results in a frame delay of about 3 frames (assuming Frame Creation is off). "Fast" will eliminate some of the standard video processing overhead and cuts frame delay to about 1.5 frames. There is no way for a video picture to appear instantaneously with zero delay on any digital video display, so the Fast frame delivery feature on the AE3000/4000 is about as good as it gets.
• Smooth-screen filter. Panasonic home theater projectors are famous for their Smooth Screen technology--essentially a filter that removes visible pixelation. The AE4000 has this same feature. We used to think that Smooth Screen reduced the sharpness of the image. It does not. Keep in mind when setting up a competing projector with the AE4000 in a side by side test, the "0" settings on the sharpness menus are not identical. Panasonic's models always have the sharpness setting default to zero with no artificial edge enhancement. Competing models usually default to zero also, but their so-called "0" setting often has some built in edge enhancement. On such models, the sharpness control needs to be turned off, or down to -5 or -10 depending on the model in question, to equal what Panasonic models are already defaulted to. Conversely, you can turn the sharpness setting on the AE4000 up to +5 or so to more closely approximate what 0 is on competing units. Once you balance out the edge enhancement, there is no significant difference in image sharpness between the AE4000 and other models in its price range. And if you boost the Detail Clarity Processor to +3 or +4, you get an extremely sharp picture with an abundance of detail definition.
• On-board Wave Form Monitor. The wave form monitor assists in the calibration of the projector, and for those into serious tweaking it is a great tool to have available. Professional installers in particular will find this tool useful. The AE4000 and its predecessors are the only home theater models anywhere near this price range that have this feature.
• Split Screen Calibration. Introduced initially on the AE2000, this as been carried forward in both the 3000 and 4000. It enables you to select a portion of the screen image, then duplicate it side by side. Having done this, you can apply image control adjustments, and they will appear on the right image while holding the left image static. This lets you see the changes you are making to the picture in "before and after" presentation. Thus you can see precisely the effects of the changes you are making. You can finish by either saving or discarding the changes you've been experimenting with. For many users, this is a great educational tool that helps you understand the nature and range of the various adjustment controls available to you.
Limitations
There are several things to keep in mind if you are planning to install an AE4000. The most important is that the combination of the zoom lens and eco-mode lamp can curtail lumen output significantly. The Cinema 1 mode is about 550 lumens with the lamp on full power and the zoom set to its shortest throw distance (largest picture from any given distance). Given the contrast of this projector, that is plenty of light to fill a 150" diagonal screen in a dark room, and still have a sparkling high contrast image.
However, if you move the projector back to its maximum throw distance, you lose 40% of the light, so Cinema 1 drops to about 330 lumens. You would probably want to either move the projector forward, or reduce the screen size, or switch to a brighter operating mode like Normal. These trade-offs should be taken into consideration during the planning phase. Similarly, putting the lamp into eco-mode sacrifices 32% of your light. That may or may not be something you can accept based on the screen size, throw distance, and desired operating mode.
Air Filter. Another thing to keep in mind is that the AE4000 has an air filter that should be cleaned every 100 hours of use. That sound like an onerous task, but it isn't. Cleaning does not entail replacing or washing the filter. It just needs to be vacuumed, so we suggest you get a hand-held vacuum cleaner for about $25 and keep it handy in your theater room. The air filter cartridge easily unsnaps from the side of the unit with a poke of the finger. Pulling the filter cartridge, giving it a thorough vacuum, and clicking the cartridge back into place takes about 30 seconds. The manual requests that you do this after every 100 hours of use, or once every 50 movies or so. Keeping the filter free of dust build up will give you maximum lamp life, and reduce the chances of getting any dust contamination inside the unit.
Focusing. If we are looking for tiny things to complain about, we could mention that it is a bit harder to focus the AE4000 than it is competing models. For one, the Smooth Screen filter pretty much erases any distinct pixel structure. On most projectors, getting the pixels as sharp as possible is the ultimate objective, but that is not possible on this unit since discrete pixels are not there. So you have to look at the graphics provided, which, for the purpose of fine focusing, is not quite as ideal.
Beyond that, the powered focus does not have a fine step function, so it is easy to overshoot the target. We found ourselves running back and forth through the sweet spot several times until we hit it just right. It takes a bit of fussing with, but once it is focused it stays there until you move the projector.
Warranty. The warranty is more limited that many in the home theater market. The purchase price includes parts and labor service for one year or 2000 hours of use, whichever comes first. By filing a claim form similar to a mail-in rebate, Panasonic will extend it to two years or 2000 hours, whichever comes first. The 2000 hour limit is not typical in the industry, and is something to be aware of if you plan on using your projector for many hours a day. If you run your projector for 5.5 hours per day, 7 days per week, you will hit the 2000 hour limit in 12 months. In this case the extension secured by filing the claim form does you no good. On the other hand, if you don't spend more than 2.7 hours a day, seven days a week, watching your projector, you get the full two years of warranty.
Conclusion
The Panasonic PT-AE4000 sets a new benchmark for price/performance in the home theater industry. In both picture quality and features, it easily surpasses the AE3000. And at just $1,999 it will have an earthshaking effect on prices throughout the industry. No other projector is as fully-loaded with user friendly features as this one; other than the AE3000, no other competing model even comes close in features and functionality.
But what it always comes down to is picture quality. And in this regard, the AE4000 surpasses not only the AE3000, but all other 1080p models that we have yet seen under $3,000. It is not the brightness unit on the market by any stretch. Several other inexpensive 1080p models have brighter Cinema modes. But if you are looking for extremely high image quality and are willing to give up a little lumen output to get it, the AE4000 produces a refined, elegant picture that is extremely difficult to beat.
Since the AE4000's picture quality not only surpasses the competitors in its price range, but rivals and in some cases exceeds that of "high-end" models selling for five times the price or more, it warrants a solid 5 stars for performance. Since it has more features than any other home theater projector ever built, 5 stars is not even enough to illustrate its distinction in this category. Similarly, its ease of use is unrivaled-perfect color calibration out of the box in Cinema 1 mode, smart menus that are easy to navigate, lens memory to accommodate 2.40 super widescreen without an anamophic lens-no other projector has all of these things, and most have none of them.
All of this adds up to a remarkable value proposition: at a street of $1,999, we've simply never seen this much performance at this price. Panasonic has been extremely tight-lipped about this product launch. Until now many thought the company was dropping out of the home theater projector market. Today's announcement makes it clear that they are here to stay. The Panasonic PT-AE4000U will be one of the hottest selling home theater projectors of the fall season, and we enthusiastically give it our highest recommendation.
For more detailed specifications and connections, check out our Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector page.
my question is... with 3d media being the next big thing, how will these projectors handle that? there a new tv's coming out marketed especially for 3d viewing, can these projectors output the latest 3d video or is it entirely new technology?
I'm very interested in this projector. Do you feel it has enough light output to handle a 120" Studiotek 130 16:9 screen in a totally light controlled room? If so what would be the ideal mounting distance from screen to projector?
Do you have a ship date? I'm hoping as soon as possible!
Does the 4000 use inorganic panels?
My units with organic LCD panels have definitely lost some snap over time.
Also, 3D capable would have been great, but I guess I have to wait until next year for that to start showing up...
Like Tom I am more interested in its performance on larger screens. I was going to be using a 150" (Elite with the 1.8 power gain material) 16x9 screen in my new theater room.
I have always gravitated towards DLP due to an aversion to SDE and gratefully no issues with RBE. LCD's of the past always just looked lifeless (IMHO), but to be honest I have not viewed any of the '08 or '09 crop.
For this reason I have been "looking forward" to the InFocus 8602 or BenQ W6000 as possible replacements for my InFocus 7210.
Can you give me a little image comparison between the AE4k, W6k, and the HC3800?
Thank you for your time and assistance,
Steve
The PT-AE3000U seems very interesting. I see everywhere that the retail price is 2499$ MRSP and you say in article that it will be at 1999$. Is it an error or not?
* ANSI contrast, to properly compare with ae3000 and others * Full on/off contrast with and without the DI, without screenshots or numbers, "better contrast & black levels" really doesn't say that much... * lamp hours, low vs high lamp mode * noise level, low vs high lamp mode
Sounds like the AE4000 will shake things up QUITE A BIT this year with a $2000 price tag!! It will be interesting to see how the Epson's, Sony's and JVC's will react to this. Seems like they are going to have SERIOUS problems selling their new models with the AE4000 priced so low...
Well done Panny and great review
I understand it memorizes various zoom positions necessary to produce a lower-cost CIH benefit, but what about the horizontal/vertical lens shift positions that might also be necessary in off-set pj mounting?
Thanks.
At panasonic.de the PT-AE4000E is listed for 2.699,00 EUR. So i think i will go for the Epson 8100.
Anybody have a AE4000U that came from an older LCD that can comment? I asked a few local HT stores if they had a demo unit I could evaluate and they don't. Oh well, I tried.
I upgraded from a PT-AE2000 and am impressed with the upgrade, it isnt a major leap in quality but is definately noticeable in brightness, black levels, and things looking a bit more 3D.
Can you let us know what kind of screen you have? I am in the process of buying a projector and a screen and panasonic 4000u is one of the two I have shortlisted.
Thanks!
I was actually asking Mark Rogers, what kind of screen he has. Brand, size, material (bright white or grey etc ....)
Cheers!
Thanks for the nice long reply. I did contact the Atlanta area dealers and also the national customer service. None of the local dealers have them and the national customer service was not of much help. So I am really surprised that its so hard to find a showroom with it. It appears because of the price point nobody is interested in carrying one in the showroom. Something that Panasonic may have to think through if they are deliberately doing it.
In any case I am also doing the same thing that you did, which is to read reviews here and on projectorreviews.com. I think I am almost ready to order the panasonic or the Epson 9500UB this week. The latter mainly because I can see it in the showroom.
You mentioned about a custom screen you are building. How is it going? What kind of screen are you building?
Cheers!
So does this actually re-scale the video from the source to use the entire panel, or as I would suspect just zoom the image to fit the screen?
In other words, the 2.40:1 image is zoomed to fit the screen but there is no increase in the number of pixels being used as in a true anamorphic compression/lens set up.
I just saw a demo of the Epson 9500UB (not 8500UB but they are almost the same with some bells and whistles on the 9500UB). I saw the baraka blue ray disc and the picture was amazing. I cant compare it to the panasonic yet but based on what I saw it was a decent projector. The content itself was 2.35:1 and so I could see the bars on the top and bottom of the screen. It was a 0.95 gain accoustically transparent white screen and the bars were not completely black. (Not black enough to notice it) They were grey or whitish grey. I thought I will bounce this off of you and see how the bars look on a panasonic projected screen. Though there are other factors also that contribute to it, like ambient light, screen material etc..., I was just curious.
Its a shame that I cant see the panny beforehand. I may have to try your suggestion. Did you hear back from Panasonic? Were they able to answer your question?
Also how do you send a private message here? Instead of us communicating thru this we could exchange emails.
Panasonic eventually did get back to me via email on my question. They basically confirmed to me what I already discovered on my own regarding the 2.35:1 mode but I simply wanted confirmation from them.
In terms of black bars: My own experience with the AE4000u is as follows: When I view either 16:9 or 2.35:1 (or 4:3) material the Panasonic AE4000u does not put out image data in the areas where the "black bars" are (unless of course those black-bars are actually within the movie material itself, in which case they would, or should, appear as almost pure black). I have a pure-white Da-Lite screen with a slight gain (around 1.2) and in my viewing room, the areas where the "black bars" appear are hardly noticeable in comparison to the areas of the screen where there is absolutely no image at all. In my case, the shade of the black bars is not milky white but almost black. Now, how noticeable these blank areas (I prefer to call them blank instead of black) are going to be will be depend on the amount of light in the image being projected and a few other factors. In my case, I can barely see the "black bars" even though they are slightly "brighter" (therefore noticeable) than the black in the image itself - but this is because the black bars are hitting the white portion of my screen. Short of using a 2:35:1 screen, what one can do is to mask-off those areas of the screen where there's no image using some kind of flat black mask so that the image appears surrounded by a solid black border - this will also seem to improve apparent contrast. But this is easier said than done because different aspect material will require different size masks and in different positions (even with the CIH approach). So it becomes somewhat impractical and inconvenient to manually mask-off a screen this way. If these black bars(or as I call them blank aeas) really bother you and you have deep pockets there are screen systems that actually have moving masks which allow you to mask of a screen for different aspect ratios - but they are not inexpensive at all.
You should probably get 2 or 3 more quotes. Its really not that difficult to mount the projector, if you are handy. Also you may have to do the calibration more than once. So I suggest you learn it so you can do it if needed in the future. Where do you live?
Good Luck.
the price between these 2 models is over USD 1000 different, not USD 500; which one you will buy then?
I just started looking and reading most of your comments has been helping. Maybe someone else may have this question as well.
I may answer my own question, but my interpretation is that YES it can. It is basically just projecting a signal that it is receiving from a DVD player or cable box. Correct?
Thanks guys/gals,
Does anyone know what would cause this ?
----------------------------- In response to: Mike mrozinski Alert Moderator
Can anyone recommend the best screen to use with the Panasonic PT-AE4000 Projector? It will be in the basement with no windows, so lighting will be controlled. Thanks ! :)
Thanks, Abhi
E:mail - Du kan sende dit spørgsmal til: support.dk@eu.panasonic.com
Specifically, asking them what your liabilities would be in terms of warranty coverage for a US purchased projector.
I bought the Sanyo PLV-Z2000 two years ago and have loved every minute of it! It is my first HD projector and it has made everything, from tv to games to movies, much more enjoyable.
But I hate to drop another $2000 on a projector when my Sanyo works just fine and looks beautiful!
Somebody help me, will this Panny blow my socks off?
When I use the image menu and control the focus, the initial pattern of green lines that go horizontal and vertical in the middle of the screen do not appear as sharp individual lines, rather a heavy line with some light green surrounding the lines. Moving to the image of the cross hatch shows that what I believe should be distinct thin green lines are in fact about 1/2" wide with the surrounding blur of the green.
Is this normal? Will a simple calibration using an old Video Essentials DVD clear this up, or is this something that would require a factory return? I could send it back to Visual Apex as defective, since this is supposed to be calibrated out of the box.
I watched Iron Man on BluRay and it looked like a DVD playing, not a stunning crystal clear 1080p image.
When I focus the projector, I use the menu for lens control or something like that. It has the vertical and horizontal green lines in the middle of the screen, and allows you to adjust zoom and focus on that page. I get close to the screen and slowly adjust the focus, since any more than two presses at a time in succession causes the focus to change rapidly. My biggest issue appears with the vertical lines, as it just isn't a distinct green line black space green line image. I also look at the text on the screen being projected to help tell what the buttons do. As I adjust the focus, I get some shadowing/ghosting of the letters to the left of the letter. As I move the focus, the shadowing to the left gets less and less until there is virtually none, but then I notice that there is now shadowing below the letter. I have played with it until I get it to the middle point where there is a slight amount of shadowing both to the left and below the letter.
I have changed the zoom level and ended up with a 74" image on my screen that I can focus and it is absolutely perfect. No shadowing at all and all the vertical and horizontal lines are crisp with solid black between the lines.
I bought the projector from one of the more reputable vendors for projectors and they had a tech call me to go over the issue. His assessment was that I am just being picky, and that with the units image smoothing technology, getting a true crisp focus on a 92" image is not going to happen. He stated that going from my 720p Optoma HD72 with BluRay to this unit is too close of a comparison for me to expect the image to blow me away and be as crisp as I was expecting. He suggested I live with it for a while and see what I think. I put in a movie and the text at the beginning of the movie (white text on black background) stating that director commentary was not endorsed was fuzzy / blurry to me. I don't know if I can live with that, as my HD72 at 720p was never blurry in this manner.
I am thinking of taking some pictures or video of the screen and send them to the tech and ask if he thinks this kind of distortion is normal as he was suggesting.
After submitting my issue to them, they had a tech support person call me to basically talk me out of thinking there was a problem. He suggested I watch some movies on the unit and get used to the look of the unit, and that I would be satisfied. Now that I have more than 5 hours of time on the lamp bulb, I can no longer return the unit. They conveniently left out that fact when they told me to use the unit and wait out the issue. I will work with Panasonic on the issue to get my unit repaired or replaced.
I just wanted it known here that if you purchase from Visual Apex and have an issue with a unit, you are charged a 15% restock fee (others charge 10%), and have a limited lamp use time that you can return in (others allow up to 10 hours, not 5). I guess the old adage is true in this case, you get what you pay for. I chose to buy from a retailer who has a great price on the unit, but whose policies and customer service leave much to be desired.
Also will we need a scaler for the output of a dvd player if we play the films back from a dvd player? thanks for any comments you can give.
A. The AE4000 DOES have a fine step micro focus ability. In facts the microsteps are smaller than most.
B. Focusing this model to its best ability requires a test pattern screen like the SMPTE 133 screen found on a blu ray copy of DVE. The first step is to focus the center pixel bar structures so they are sharp, then go to the corner pixel bars in the corner of the screen and tap the focus button until they become razor sharp as well, there is a fine line between getting the corners and center sharp at the same time, but the fine microsteps of the 4000 will allow you to do that. When prop3erly focued this is one of the sharpest 3LCD pj's I have ever seen in honesty. Much better than the 8500UB.
C. I had the 8500UB for a week along with the 4000. I actually found the AE4000's blacks were deeper once fully calibrated. WHen the gamma and low IRE grey scale tracking is dialed in, the 4000's blacks are definetly a shade deeper than the 8500UB and of course the shadow detail is vastly superior. For those hung up on blacks and black level detail the AE4000 is better in both regards, but it does require a full calibration, and that means tweaking the gamma and greyscale in the low IRE. DO this and the 4000 is superior in every way to the 8500UB. In fact its actually very close in black level performance to my JVC RS25, and thats no joke. SOme of the professional reviews would lead people to believe otherwise, but I have found pretty much all reviews lack a true ISF quality calibration to get the full potential out of the PJ, and there are a number of discrepancies, like not explaining how the motorized zoom function truely works or the very fine microsteps it actually does have.
So, if you want a pj that is VERY CLOSE in performance to the LCOS based pj's like the RS25, this is the one to get. It has honestly 98-99% of the performance abilities of my RS25 for literally $5-6k less. I would never have paid the money for my RS25 if I was familiar with this pj months earlier, its that good when in the hands of someone who is capable of using its advanced calibration functions PROPERLY.
Most if not all electronic products are made in China now and re-badged by leading brand names, especially Panasonic. Panasonic Corporation of China -- [link deleted]
I remember seeing a show on cable featuring an electronics show in China where products like camcorders and DVD players were being showcased and they were all blank names, waiting to be purchased by a known named corporation to put their label on it. That is why there are similar looking products but sold under different brand names, like the BenQ W1000 and Vivitek H1080FD for example.
All I can say is: I WAS RIGHT! I put the unit back up and went about correcting the zoom and focus. It was clear (no pun intended) that I was going to be happy, as the focus was already much better than I had ever seen. After going back and forth on the for a while, I was pretty sure I couldn't do much better. I put in Iron Man, sat back, and finally got to enjoy the purchase I made back in February. The picture is stunning, as I knew it should be from all of the positive reviews and editor's choice awards.
The bottom line is this. If you think that there is a focus issue, don't let someone talk you out of it. Call Panasonic and send it back. The unit is stunning when operating properly so stick to your guns and get what you paid for.
Again the problem is -
I have a 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen. The projector is ceiling mounted. Hence, when the zoom changes - need to reset vertical shifts. I am able to save Zoom settings in memory, but not the vertical shift settings which needs to be changed everytime the input format changes. Please enlighten me on what I could be doing wrong. Thanks.
When I zoom the image, the image goes little bit out of focus and I have refocus it. Is this normal/expected?
One test for ideal blacks is to look at the screen in your HT room without an image being projected and that's as close to black as you're ever going to get and as good a test as any for your PJ once you fire it up.
The comparison to CRT, LCD etc... is nonsense.
Many thanks
Toju
I thank you